On our second day in Vela Luka, wind warnings for the dreaded Bora came over the internet and it was also apparent by the large number of boats that were filing in all day. Here we were in Korcula’s most protected harbour wearing T-shirts and shorts yet the weary sailors coming into the harbour were in wet weather gear. We decided we would stay here on the comfortable town quay for the duration.
Vela Luka is a beautiful town but very quiet, what could we get up to? Turns out that if we walked up the side of the hill about 800 metres, we would not only get a view out of the harbour towards Vis but we would also be able to visit Vela Spila.
Vela Spila is a 40 x 40 cave which was home to both Mesolithic and Neolithic finds, showing life in this area back over 20,000 years. It is called a stratified prehistoric site as the layers contain secrets of many generations. In these early days, we can see that necklaces and pottery were being made. Although damp, the cave would have been comfortable with a few bearskins and wooly mammoth hides to cover the floors. There were natural skylights in the cave, offering a bit of light. It was a nice hike and a humbling experience to be in a home that is 20,000 years old.
We met a very nice Croatian gentleman, stepping off his fishing boat the next day. We said ‘Hello’ and he came over for a chat. He had worked on the Oriana for several years and then in New Zealand. He had been to Sydney and had been able to retire back to his native Vela Luka. He pointed to the house that he built on the waterfront, incredibly proud to have a lovely new home right on the water. He said that many people from Vela Luka went to the US and Australia to work and live. It was fairly obvious he was happy to have made it back to Vela Luka.
Monday, the Bora had blown itself out, and we motored over to Lastovo. Until recently the island of Lastovo was a military site and we saw plenty of bunkers in the hills. It is a municipality of 46 islands, some very small. Lastovo the island is the largest and we are circumnavigating the island going from port to port. The entire island is a Natural Park (Park pirode Lastovi) and each evening we would be visited by the park ranger and we would pay for our daily ticket of $25 kunas.
There are places you can’t anchor, mainly in beds of Posidonia Oceanis or Poseidon Grass. These underwater plants have been in the Mediterrean for up to 100,000 years ago. Feeling younger yet? They bear fruit and create whole meadows under the sea. In Croatia, they are working to ensure these meadows remain protected. I am happy to pay $5 Aussie dollars a night for their protection.
We have made our way to the very pleasant anchorage at Skrivena Luka on Lastovo. Great marina attached to the restaurant Porto Rosso. More exploring to do on Lastovo today.
Thanks Sandy for pointing out that there are no shops readily available on Lastovo, we were prepared. A big hello to Pip and Colin, thinking of you. Pip, you may be as confused as I am on which America’s Cup team to support. Great for discussion though.
My niece, Amanda, is getting married in one month. I love the internet because even though I couldn’t attend the bridal shower, I could see all the photos. Between now and then Manda, remember to breathe.