As you leave Pyrgos and wind up the hill to Olympia, it is easy to understand why this is thought to be the playground of the gods. From ten kilometres out, the air gets clearer and all the vegetation seems more lush and fragrant. There is a zephyr breeze and the temperature is perfect.
A clear day at Olympia
We first visited the Olympia Archaeological Museum. It covers the history of the site beginning with prehistoric artifacts until the Sanctuary’s demise under Theodosius ll.
One of two beautiful pediments recovered from Zeus’ temple.
James and I watched many videos of Greece recently and now we wonder why we had never seen an aerial of the site as a whole. Olympia is remarkable. Imagine kicking a goal in your city’s biggest stadium and then imagine winning a race under the gaze of the gods and your country’s stadium. The games were “a pole of attraction for Hellenism”*
Meanwhile, it was a men’s only event. Women, particularly married women could not view the athletes compete. Not gods, kings nor husbands want to suffer by comparison with the strapping young nude athletes.
The Phillippeion, a monument to Alexander the Great and his father, Phillip ll
There are 23 separate monuments, including temples on the site. We wished we could see more and next time we would consider finding a guide. To this day, we are inspired by the passion and commitment it takes to take part in the Olympics.
Patras is a very commercial port and we have had heard mixed reports. We feel that although it isn’t a garden spot, the city is re-beautifying itself and there are some beautiful spots, but not close to the marina. There is a great ship chandler though and a few good restaurants nearby, there are plenty of cafe bars right at the marina.
There were two delightful spaces near the marina, a small green dog park with some great dogs visiting every day and a small amphitheater, which features dance classes in the evening with a view out to the mainland.
Patras dance class
After much research, we decided to take a Ktel Bus from Patras to Pyrgos, a deluxe coach, for a circuitous trip of 1.5- 2 hours. You get to see other sites on the way, but it isn’t a tourist bus. You alight at a great bus terminal in Pyrgos and switch to a city bus to Olympia, the express bus goes in a slightly straighter line but takes almost as long as it seems to stop more often for passengers. Really cost effective, as a taxi would have cost about Euro125-150. The train does not seem to go into Olympia any longer and if you are going from Athens, it would be worthwhile to join a tour. It is about four hours from Athens to Olympia. It is beautiful and a worthwhile trip, with many rewards for those who visit. Next time I visit, I would like to spend the night
James at the Archaeological Museum, Olympia. A must see
My expectations for Olympia were quite different. It was a Sanctuary and there were many resplendent buildings. Here are some photos and we have more for tomorrow.
Temple of ZeusHermes holding babyJames at the Stadium
From Zeus and Hera and all the gods and goddesses we visited at Olympia, we have birthday wishes to my sister, Linda Doubek. James and I hope your day is wonderful.
We all have our bucket list and one item on ours was to visit Shipwreck Bay, officially Navagio Beach. We were not expecting the right weather to sail to Shipwreck Bay and it is too deep for most yachts to anchor. It has been blowing Norwesters (30 knots) every afternoon, much like a Sydney Southerly Buster and we didn’t want to join the wreck. We tried to book onto a catamaran tour for the morning, but we could never raise the charter company. In the end, we spoke to Yannis and took a car up to the viewing point to get an aerial view of the bay and a tour of Zante Island. We weren’t disappointed with our aerial viewing, we had it on good authority “le water is colder than zee witch’s breast”.
one Bay North of Navagio Beach
The blue milkiness of the bay is from Limestone ‘pearls’ creating a swirl of aqua water, so the water is more translucent than clear. The colour is certainly one we think of when we think of sailing azure seas.
For future reference, if it was warmer and you wanted a swim, our mate John from Zante suggested we drive to Porto Vromi and take a small boat to nearby Shipwreck Bay. If you are 21-30 take a party boat, but take sunscreen and a hat because it’s a long day.
Heikell says the Shipwreck was a cigarette boat, a smuggler’s boat to bring in tax-free cigarettes, which wrecked while evading the Coast Guard in a storm. John, Greece’s biggest Cat’s fan, says it might have been set-up to glamorise the most beautiful bay in Greece for tourism. It is so stunningly beautiful, it is hard to imagine they needed to improve the story line.
We came back past olive trees, that were almost 200 years old, rustic villages and pine forests. We stopped for coffee at the top of another wonderful bay. The view and colour of the water were remarkably brilliant.
Another beautiful bay at Kambl
We finished the day at the Venetian Fortress at Bohali. We expected the Fortress/castle to be a small hill-top ruin but it is extensive and both the British and the Nazi’s had taken the Venetian’s work and reused it. We saw evidence of a British football pitch and the Venetian’s garrison prison and many wells. There was a large bastion overlooking Zakthynos Town but from every side of the formidable fortress walls, the views were extensive. It is well worth a trip.
Bastion of the Venetian Fortress
We went for a walk after dinner and said goodbye to our friend, John. He asked us to let the Cats know he was barracking for them. So for John, ‘Go the Cats’.
On Friday, we found ourselves motoring to the mainland port of Preveza. This is a non-tourist town for the most part, a working city of Greece. For us it was the right place to purchase a new Manson Supreme anchor. For other sailors, we are finding the Ionian Islands to be a well spring of ship chandlers. We were able to moor alongside the Town Quay and easily lift the anchor onto the boat.
a beautiful Lefkada bridge
Back to Anthony and Cleopatra, about 64 BC, Mark Anthony and Cleopatra came to these isles to fight Octavian Caesar and Agrippa in battle. Despairing of defeat, Anthony and Cleopatra lost their nerve and raced back to Egypt, ultimately to commit suicide. Caesar commemorated his win by building a fortress, Nikopolis about six miles from Preveza. Aptly, the largest marina in the Preveza area is the Cleopatra marina in Aktion across the harbour from the Town Quay.
Earthquake-proof Clock Tower
Lefkada is an unusual ‘island’. It is surrounded by canals, which separate it from the mainland and nearby salt marshes. There are a surfeit of bridges, some are artistic and others look very industrial.
Lefkada is like other Ionian cities and towns with small lane ways and alleys even in the newer areas. Housing is remarkably different in Lefkada. In 1953 there was a huge earthquake, many towns in the area were leveled. Here in Lefkada, they continue to build the first floor of houses in stone or brick but all of the second stories are built using corrugated iron. There is even an earthquake safe town clock. Between rust, a myriad of colours and graffiti, Levkada certainly has its own style.
Corrugated iron house
Yesterday found us motoring over to Lefkada in almost no breeze. We had to arrive at the canal which separates Lefkada from the mainland, in time for the opening of the “floating bridge” coming past ruins of castles and shallow silt dredged canals. We were very happy for the lack of the wind in these shallows, we had all sails stowed before we attempted to file into the ‘waiting room’ of yachts.
St Maura Fortress at Lefkada canal Northern entrance
This canal was begun by the Corinthians in the 7th Century BC, according to Heikell. Augustus improved it during the Roman occupation, the Turks and Venetians added a bridge and its ruins are nearby. To draw breath here in the Ionians is to absorb history.
We have been travelling for a month and first we were so busy with friends and family in the States, we didn’t blog. Recently, when we tried to blog, WordPress was having problems. Today we have had the information and time to get back on track.
Gruz Harbour and Islands off Dubrovnik
We arrived in Dubrovnik on the 30th April to the news to Mercier was going to be held up in getting back into the water. Up to ten days was the likely new timetable, but luckily there were some Poms who were desperate to get their boat into the water and they persuaded ACI to get both yachts into the water on Sunday, when they wouldn’t be working on the hard stand. They literally had to dig a channel out with the bobcat, so Mercier could motor through.
Second attempt at excavating, after we touched on initial launch
We had a few days to get organised and then we left for a night at Calypso’s in Polace on Miljet and over to Ubli on the island of Lastovo, where we checked out of Croatia and sailed across to Vieste, Italy on Wednesday.
The island of Lastovo is one of the most westerly points of Croatia and we spent our last night in a tiny cove with a submarine bunker on a perfectly quiet night, not even a wave against the hull.
Vieste, Italy was a lovely, if long, day sail from Lastovo, almost entirely without use of the engine. If Lastovo had been quiet, Vieste was lively with the feast of Mary of the Merino being celebrated and the whole town out for the procession of the statue of Mary.
Celebrating the feast of Mary of the Merino
The next day, we started our Italian provisioning strategies in Vieste. We circumnavigated the entire town looking for Sim cards, cheese, spices and wine. The Fornaio or bakery rivaled any on Arthur Avenue, tremendous bread from old large woodfired ovens.
Gargano State Park, north Vieste
The day was beautiful and we saw a sign offering Spritz by the sea, James and I understood at once, Spring was in the air and the season was starting.
James and I along with Donna Tormo received a lovely invitation from our friend Peggy San Filipo, come and see Tucson. Peggy, Donna and I are old skiing/life/work buddies from Aspen, hard to note that was decades ago.
Saguaro Cactus in an Arizona landscape
We did a walk in Sabino Canyon in the Santa Catalina mountains of Arizona. There were large numbers of Saguaro cactus, water holes and large boulders of gneiss. The weather was perfect, warm and sunny.
James and I still travel with both ladies. For years we met Donna in different places: San Diego, San Francisco, Baltimore, Houston and New York on our trips back to the US and also travelled Italy together. Peggy has visited us twice in Sydney and for years we have met in Los Angeles just before we would head back to Sydney.
Peggy preparing dinner
There was quite a bit of eating, drinking, laughing and talking going on all weekend. There were walks and taking photos. Visiting the Hotel Congress and visiting a very lively downtown Tucson and seeing where they captured Dillinger. We had a great dinner at Cafe Poca Cosa on Saturday night with friends Arta and Celeste.
Donna on the ‘Sunset balcony’.Peggy, Gaila & James at Poca Cosa
Brunch is mandatory
It was quite a drive to get to Tucson. It is about a six-hour drive through the desert. Hours of the drive are in barren desert country but as we approach Tucson we see the hills and scenery of Cowboys and Indians. Rugged hills full of Saguaro cactus, which is indigenous to the Sonora Desert.
Walking in the wash, taking close up views of the Saguaros.
A giant thank you to Peggy for all her hospitality and generosity. Tucson is highly recommended, if you are going and want to play golf or pickleball, I will introduce you to Peggy.
James and I are enjoying San Diego, it is not just Mexican food, relaxing with Anna & Harv or beautiful vistas, but all the opportunities we have to catch up with old friends. We celebrated day of the Dead with Anne, met Kayla La Morte in a revitalised downtown San Diego and visited Anne Hoiberg at Liberty Station.
Brad, Gaila and Kim at Hooley’s in East County
Marylou and Anna – Chez Beales
Anne Hoiberg and James discussing wine making and the Women’s Museum.
Today was a beautiful San Diego day, the on shore winds meant the usual marine layer with its haze was missing. We had a nice walk on Coronado Beach, finding sand castles and hawk training, a brilliant blue sky. We could see the Coronado Islands and ships in San Diego bay.
Sand Castle and life guard tower
Harv and James on the Coronado Boardwalk
We are off for a few days to Tucson to see Peggy San Filipo and Donna Tormo and Linda, Sarah and Amanda on the way back.
Yesterday we headed over to Hvar Harbour. Even in mid September Hvar was busy, so we weren’t able to pick up a mooring. While we waited to see if one would come available, we took a few photos. Hvar was a major port for Venetians on their way to Istanbul and they have left their imprint on this beautiful city.
Hvar Town from the bay
You can see that it was a blue sky, azure sea day, we aren’t that far north of Dubrovnik. Still in Dubrovnik yesterday, it rained so hard that it flooded and man-hole covers floated off their manholes and down the road. Weather in the Adriatic is not easy to follow.
We had a nice evening in Vis, which was too quiet as our favourite bar had closed for the summer. In the morning, we had the same beautiful weather and headed over to Vela Luka on the Island of Korcula. Vela Luka simply means big harbour and it is a commanding harbour, quite long and today stunningly blue.
Island at the entrance to Vela Luka Harbour
Vela Luka is a working town with many new buildings under construction. There are some beautiful old churches and galleries in town as well as the museum called Center for Culture. Vela Luka has an average of 2500 hours of sunshine each year.
Promenade Vela Luka with its perfect palmsSmallest church we have seen – circa 1589
Happy Birthday to Suse King, hope you are spoiled all weekend. It’s now possible to follow the blog, just fill in the follow sign on the right hand column.
All a boy needs, a boat, Mom and his dog. Early morning scene on Bol Harbour
The song says ‘you always take the weather with you’, the last few days we have had wonderful sunny clear days and most evenings a big thunderstorm, reminding us of Sydney southerly busters.
We were on our way to Bol on the island of Brac, thinking we would be able to pick up a mooring but we were waved onto the town quay. On the other side of the L shaped Quay there were several catamarans, who probably only draw about 1.3; on our side it was a bit deeper but very busy with the ferry wharf. James, Claire and I decided it was too bouncy to stay on board for lunch and went off to find a pizza on the boardwalk. We said hello to the Perth, WA owners of La Mischief, Steve and Cas, who invited us over for a drink in the evening
We headed out to the iconic beach of Zlatni Rat. This is one of the most photographed beaches in Croatia. Zlatni Rat is a arrowhead of white pebbles over 600 metres long, which changes shape depending on the currents and winds. Close by there are Roman ruins in a stand of pines and a lovely simple church. It seemed one side of Zlatni was protected great for swimming and the other perfect for wind surfers.
Zlatni Rat, Brac
Sunset is nigh, we head over to La Mischief, which is very close to the boardwalk and its cafes. The prevailing thought seems to be we should have a cocktail. So an order went in to the nearby cafe for 3 margaritas and 3 Royal Mojitos. In Bol’s joggly bay, it is hard to negotiate the passerelles, but our wonderful waiter manages to do it with a tray of cocktails.
Service with a smile, agility & balance
During our chat, we hear about La M’s problem on entering Croatia. Current practice on entering a country late at night would be to fly the Q flag, stay on board until morning and contact the authorities. However, two months ago, Croatia changed this rule. You must fly the Q flag, make your way to the Harbourmaster’s office and call him on the number advised on his door, regardless of time. One more reason to arrive during daylight hours. Fines are payable. Money better spent on Procip!
We were planning to go to Hvar and moor in the town’s bay, but the weather has been questionable, so we opt for Stari Grad, which means we can take Claire to our favourite swimming spot and chill out bar for lemon press. Stari Grad is the port on Hvar from which the ferry leaves to Split or Dubrovnik.
Stari Grad Swimming Hole and chill out cafe
It is so dry here during summer that there are many cafes that exist under umbrellas. Please note the secure fencing (aka ropes) to ensure safety. You can’t see all the dogs also visiting the cafe, none of which cause a problem.
Today we had an early morning walk to take Claire to the ferry enroute to Dubrovnik. It is going to be a bit quieter on Mercier tonight, but we hope that Claire enjoys Dubrovnik and Corfu and the rest of her travels. We all agree, you only live once.
Zadar is a remarkable town with wonderful public places. The Forum is a public square which presents the Roman town layout with artifacts of its Roman ancestry. Columns and capitols sit on the paving, evoking the lives of people 2500 hundred years ago.
The Forum of Zadar, with St Mary’s Church
The alleys offer shade in the hot Croatian summer sun and the Trqs or Squares offer a sunny seat on winter days. There are gardens and small harbours just outside the old town which sits on a small elongated penisula.
Town Square Zadar – notice Roman column near cafeVenetian Town Gate
Sadly after a few good days in Zadar, Lesley left us for better gelato in Ancona and a beautiful Umbrian Hill town, Gubbio, for truffle laden delicacies. Jealous much? We are already plotting to get Lesley back next year, such a excellent traveller and great friend.
Our crew size hasn’t diminished, Claire Frost has joined Mercier for a bit of island hopping. going south back down towards Dubrovnik. We will be visiting Murter, Brac and Hvar while Claire is with us.
Claire and Gaila in Murter
We had a good evening in Biograd, which is fairly resorty. It has been stormy & raining in Murter but we are cozy in Marina Hramina, which is a very nice marina.
Cafe in Biograd
Happy Birthday to my cousin, Sandra Riner. Hope you have a lovely day!
