June 2014 – Sailing Azure Seas

Sunday on Tinos – Panagia Evangelistria

Tinos is most famous for a blessed icon of the Virgin Mary, which is second to Lourdes in granting miracles. Hundreds of Orthodox crawl the kilometer from Port to the Church of Panagia Evangelista up the stairs to the church to kiss the icon. Miracles are proclaimed and the benefactors give gold or silver offerings representing their miracle.

The interior of the church is beautiful with icons and many silver representations of the miracles. One miracle was of a ship which had been sinking, the crew all prayed to the Virgin Mary. Suddenly the ship stopped taking on water, when they looked at the hole, a big tuna sized fish had been sucked into the whole, staunching the flow of water, allowing them enough time to reach shore. To thank the Virgin for this miracle, a large silver sailing ship hung with 2/3 of a tuna hanging from the hole. There is a beautiful silver icon of the Virgin and a line of people waiting to say their prayers in front of her. There are silver babies, houses and other ships. We lit candles and were humbled by the faith you could feel in the church.

Here are a few photos of the church and the grounds of Panagria Evangelistria .

From the courtyard looking towards the Port

The meltemi is consistently blowing, gusts up to 50+ knots. To look outside you would think it is a perfect day, you step outside and you feel like Mary Poppins about to take off. It literally sweeps you off your feet. We have had to reef the bimini or we would have been flying with Mercier instead of sailing. The meltemi teaches patience.

We are happy to hear that Rosemary and Stephen made it to Syros and will fly back to Sydney on schedule. We wish them a safe trip.

A Meltemi in Tinos

Friday’s forecast was for a wicked southerly in the Aegean and so we did 40 miles in an attempt to make safe harbour at Tinos by Thursday afternoon.

It was warm and hazy, so after we got settled we spoke to a few taxi drivers and checked our reference books to determine which beach was the nicest.

We selected Stravros Beach imaging a beach with chaise lounges and cocktails. Actually, the beach is in the church yard and was full of families, with small children having a wonderful time. Singing and splashing Grandpa and uncles, swimming or bobbing depending upon ability. What a wonderful church yard. Across the bay is Poseidon’s sanctuary, we could see some ruins in the distance.

When we returned from our swim, we were rinsing off from the stern shower, when the water pump refused to work. Here are four of us, a salty bunch, trying to use the bucket to rinse off, so we could go below to look at the waterpump. The taxi drivers were wide eyed, they were unused to seeing such a sight in the middle of town.

James waving from Mercier, Tinos Town Quay

Friday morning James fixed the water pump with Stephen’s expert advice. There were no fierce winds from the south but it was miserably hot and humid. We went to check in with the port police and on the way back we saw a pelican come dancing into the children’s playground. The little boy’s Mum is telling him to pet the bird for a photograph; the little boy was very hesitant. However, when the Pelican decided to visit Mum, she fled the scene.

Tinos Town Pelican, he wanted the little boy to pet him

We had a nice traditional Greek lunch followed by a traditional Greek nap.

We went to the beautiful Symposion Restaurant for dinner, off the town quay and near a beautiful marble fountain for dinner. We talked about what beautiful Greek Islands we had visited and discussed our plans to visit Syros on Saturday morning. Little did we know that at 5:00 am, we would all be waken by a meltemi and all our plans would change.

Up on the balcony, goodbye dinner for Rosemary and Stephen

With gusts up to 50 knots and spin drift blowing off waves, Mercier is fixed to the quay. Rosemary and Stephen chose the wise course and boarded the ferry to Syros so that they could make their flight home on Monday. All the advice was that Sunday would be too windy even for the large ferries. We wished them Bon Voyage and safe passage, while we sit here in the swells of Tinos harbour. Tomorrow, we might go to church.

Happy Birthday Simon, aka Basil!

Nisos Kithnos

If you haven’t sailed in Greece, you may not have heard of this island not far from Kea. It is barren, seemingly with its largest crop being dry stone walls circling the countryside. As you sail into Loutra, a small but wonderful village with a small town quay. We are wedged between a handsome motor boat, with a Vespa on board and the famous yacht Felipa, sailed by Helmut, Peter, Peter and crew. Just meters from the quay in two directions are beautiful swimming beaches, one with tavernas on the sand.

Fishing from the Tavernas, Loutra, Kithnos

The crew from Yacht Felipa, were all Greek Gods, but currently reside in England and Austria. They were terribly good at having a party, teasing everyone and staying up for the World Cup Soccer into the wee hours. In winter, they are Norse gods because they spend their time skiing. Helmut was very generous in sharing some beautiful Austrian ham, sharing his precious photos of his new granddaughter, obviously a little goddess and conversation with us. We all met for dinner at separate tables at Sofrano Yachting Club, where many songs were sung about Alice.

The Greek Gods of MY Felipa — Rosemary photographing The Greek Gods of SY Felipa- we think their shirts is a reference to England or Germany winning, but we know the winner will be Forza Azzuri.

Wednesday morning found us in a car, going up to Chora, a lovely village. We wandered for an hour on a street running parallel to our parked car but you could never find an exit to the main street. We retraced our steps and came upon a wizened old woman in full black regalia, who gave me quite a lecture because we think I said ‘Kalispera’ too early. When I repeated ‘Yasus’, she gave me a pinch on the cheek and sent us on our way.

We visited Merikha and then wandered up to Driopis, which according to Heikell is like time travelling to the 1950’s. We made our way towards Kolona, the road was amazing and we made it to O. Apokriosis only because Stephen has thousands of miles of Aussie bush bashing under his belt. We could see the sand bar at Kolona.

When Heikell called the island barren,we can confirm its browness, but it is known for its cheeses, honey and figs. What amazed me is all the dry creek ravines are full of wild oleander, which normally would like dry feet but prosper in the creeks, which see so little moisture. Come for the beaches or the food but nothing beats the Greek hospitality.

The Island of Kea

Mercier sailed into Kohissia on Sunday afternoon and it looked small, brown and much less lush than the Ionian Islands. As with many of the islands and bays, it charms you only after you have stayed for awhile.

We moored on the town quay, right in front of Papa Doble Vineria, which serves good coffee and smoothies and offered an wonderful view of boats trying to anchor stern to in a gusty wind. It was very hard to keep your bow pointed straight as you reverse back into the quay.

Luckily, a very nice Athenian gentleman took our lines and chatted to us for awhile . He was going back to Athens, about an hour away in his powerboat. We decided, as the wind was getting gustier, that we would have another coffee at Papa Dobles to keep an eye on Mercier. Stephen and James and other yachties would help take the lines of the new arrivals. Plenty of advice was offered. There was a motor boat next to us and we watched aghast as a yacht was blown down onto the boat. No damage done but it was a cringe worthy event.

The ferries came in and went out pretty quickly and efficiently and we saw buses and helicopters loaded. Our neighbours at Papa Dobles, had broad American accents and sat and chatted and chatted – the ferry departed and suddenly we heard “Oh my God, OMG,OMG (x15) the ferry has left us.”

On Monday morning, we went for walks and then we decided to go up to the village of Ioulis and walked through the village to see The Lion of Kea, a sculpture carved circa 600 BC from granite.

The lion almost looks like he is smiling. The walk is fairly easy and scenic thru the village. The views as you look back to Ioulis are spectacular and out to the other islands in the deep blue water worth the effort.

When we returned our neighbouring yachts had left. We looked up to see the Squadron burgee and waved Howzat in beside us.

RSYS Yachts Howzat and Mercier on Kea Island Greece

We had a wonderful dinner overlooking the harbour and thought we could spend another day here. Lovely beaches, very nice people, especially our Athenian friend and Maria Helena, who walked me to find a laundry a half a kilometer away. There are also some nice burros on Kea, here’s one of our favorites.

Hydra

At times we have to work harder for the better things in life. Hydra is certainly worth the extra effort. The effort was in the finding the entrance, which you can’t see until you are immediately upon it. We went over early and luckily a yacht left just as we arrived. That was the only berth available on the dock. We jumped off the boat and went exploring.

Hydra was a privateers’s den for quite awhile, so small and distant from mainland Greece’s bureaucracy, that it was able to ‘trade’ under the radar. In the mid-19^th century, the bureaucracy caught up with Hydra and the population declined. By the 1960’s, tourism became a very lucrative money maker for the island. There are no cars, scooters or motorcycles allowed, boats or ferries bring in supplies and small carts fueled by man power. Burros and donkeys also cart materials, often so laden down with supplies you don’t see the donkey.

No mosquito like drone noises on Hydra, no motorcycles allowed.

It is hard to break away from the waterfront and watching boats arrive- four super yachts and a few sailing boats and many fishing boats.The super yachts obviously have a number to call, as they approach the Harbourmaster arrives with his crew and they receive the mooring lines as big as a fender and tie the stern lines.

We watched groceries being delivered on the quay, first the veggies and then Hen’s night’s brides, bridesmaids and friends, as well as day trippers.

We walked to the west of Hydratown and saw the Spilla swimming hole with jumpers throwing themselves into the Aegean.

We went to a wonderful restaurant for the sunset views and lamb cutlets, it was out of the hubbub and fresh breezes in Hydratown. We saw a restaurant full of people dressed in white having a big party on the way back.

The dock was incredibly busy with six super yachts and their staff running up and down boats and polishing the steel and serving drinks. One of the motor boats across from us had a huge wide screen TV, so we could watch the World Cup soccer.

Poros

On Wednesday evening, cousins Rosemary and Stephen Merrington joined us for two weeks on Mercier. We took a quick metro ride into Athens to see the Acropolis from a very nice restaurant with rooftop garden, Attikos on Garivaldi Street but they were booked out. If you want a romantic evening in Athens, this might have the best view of the Acropolis in the moonlight. I would suggest booking.

We strolled past the Roman Agora and down through back lanes to Thannis in Monastraki, a bustling lively restaurant specialising in souvlaki. Great reviews from an article in a UK newspaper, however, I think the author was there before the world cup.

The food was good, but they should add a caveat about the service. It seemed pretty clear our waiter was much more interested in making book on the Soccer World Cup than actually waiting tables. My bad, their takeaway looked sensational and our food was good but meh…the service.

Still we had Poros to look forward to.

We started for Poros early the next day and minutes after we started the wind filled in and we had a nice 15 knots on the beam. We stopped at a little bay and had a quick swim, the water temperature was a perfect 24.5 degrees.

Approaching the island we were enchanted by view of the houses reaching up the sides of the hill. They were an incandescent peach in the distance. We found a spot stern-to on the Town quay at Poros.

We wandered round the waterfront, saw the end of Columbia and Cote D’Ivoire match. We were all pleased that the day started out with such a great sail, included a swim and then finished with a seafood dinner on the Quay.

Today we took the a town bus to nearby Askeli, which has a fine beach although it is one you have to pay for. In this instance, the beach chairs belong to a great restaurant also called Askeli, so we had a swim in front of a superyacht, the Maltese Falcon and then went to have a terrific lunch of mezes and salad.

Stephen, James and Rosemary at Askelli Bay (Maltese Falcon behind)

They are laughing because an adorable 5-6 year old girl on her inflatable dolphin, could see me taking a photo and wanted to be in it. She paddled her dolphin back and forth just in front of them. Very cute.

Life’s Little Luxuries

Mercier is now in residence at Athens Marina, a super yacht marina in Neo Faliro. There is so much to see in Athens, we felt we could wait for Rosemary and Stephen Merrington here, get over our colds and enjoy our fellow super yachts. The Athens Marina staff are some of the finest and friendliest crews we have met even though we are the second smallest yacht here. We thought you would like to see some of our fellow marina guests, that happen to be super yachts.

Everyone in Sydney is likely to remember Jeff Koons “Puppy”, which graced Circular Quay for months in 1995. We were also lucky enough to see the show that Koons put on at Versailles. Koons is a contemporary artist that most of us enjoy.

His friend, wealthy Greek art collector, Dakis Joannou requested that Koons paint the exterior of his 114 foot yacht, Guilty. Outrageously eye-catching is such an understatement. If you are interested in art (Louise Sullivan), google to see the yacht created by Ivana Porfiri, including its sumptuous interiors.

Another yacht came into the marina, ‘better place’, a Wally Yacht. Wally Yachts is a company founded by Luca Basanni and now manufactures its futuristic motor yachts and sailing yachts in Monte Carlo. Ian McGregor reminisces about his time on a Wally Yacht in the movie, The Island. ‘better place’ is a 50 metre round the world yacht. Again, Google to see interiors, we haven’t been invited aboard.

better place, a Wally Yacht with Omega in background

Our own luxuries go to smaller items, but in Athens we found that Magic, known in Australia as Magnums, have a new concept. They have a bar full of sprinkles for your self selected Magic. Not candy sprinkles but almond slices, pink peppercorns, goji berries, carmelised hazelnuts, dried pineapple, coconut and a myriad of another 20 possibilities.

They ask if you want to dip into dark, milk or white chocolate, then he mixes your assortment of ‘sprinkles’ in a cocktail mixer, dips your ice cream and then drizzles on another chocolate for presentation. Magic gives you wifi and a frame, so you can take a foodie photo. What a concept to celebrate 25 years anniversary for Magic here in Europe.

With luck and fueled by Magic, we hope to be off to our first Aegean island tomorrow.

Athens Back Streets

Athens is vibrant bordering on frenetic. There are so many people wandering the streets, but if you stay away from Cruise ship tours, travel the intricate back streets, you will enjoy it.

Anafiotika is near the north side of Acropolis hill and looks like it was pinched from the Cycladic island of Anafi and perched there on a steep site. There were workers who came to Athens in the early 19^th century, they became homesick, so built there minute houses to remind them of Anafi.

You often see small children and grandparents on the Happy Train, as we were walking out of Anafiotika, you can see that a badly parked car meant the happy train couldn’t turn the corner. We came upon them pulling the happy train apart car by car and taking each car around the corner. Does the happy train blow its whistle and helpers come running?

Athens Happy Train — Athens’ Happy Train had to be pulled apart and manhandled to get around this corner

We wandered past the Tower of the Winds, which was a water clock on the inside and a sun dial on the outside. It has carvings of the eight winds on each of its eight sides.

Hellenistic Tower of the Winds in the Roman Agora

We visited the wonderful National Archaeological Museum with Leanne and Cam, but on Sunday we visited the Acropolis Archaeological museum. This captivating museum is just five years old and definitely a must see. The architecture is light and open with use made of the subterranean spaces. You walk over glass and view three stories of excavations or a minuscule fragment of tea cups or amphora.

Wikipedia says: The design by Bernard Tschumi was selected as the winning project in the fourth competition. Tschumi’s design revolves around three concepts: light, movement, and a tectonic and programmatic element. Together these characteristics “turn the constraints of the site into an architectural opportunity, offering a simple and precise museum” with the mathematical and conceptual clarity of ancient Greekbuildings.

James at the Acropolis Archaeological Museum

Happy Happy Birthday, darling Rene. Hope you are spoiled all happy day long.

Acropolis, Agora and a fond farewell to Leanne and Cam

“Across the distance, the Acropolis museum cradled within its protective walls its legendary treasures, lulling them to a peaceful sleep under the eerie light from the heavens. Yet, through the large window, the five Caryatids stood alert on their strong platform. The ageless maidens with the long braided hair down their backs remained awake even at this hour gazing across to the Acropolis, full of nostalgia for their sacred home. Inside their marble chests, they nurtured as always, precious hope for the return of their long lost sister.”
Effrosyni Moschoudi, The Necklace of Goddess Athena

We have been crossing items off our bucket list. We were so happy to have company for Lepanto, Zante, the Corinth Canal, Meteora and Delphi. We made the Corinth Canal a day early, so we were able to have a splendid day at the Acropolis. We thought we would share the photos.

Leanne and Gaila in front of the Caryatids, it was exceptionally windy

Delphi

There is so much antiquity here in Greece, at times it is hard to comprehend that Delphi was first settled in the Bronze Age and it became an important sanctuary or shrine to Apollo around 800 years BC.

Delphi was considered the centre of the world, with an Oracle who would speak in tongues and priests that would ‘interpret’ after gathering all the gossip and chat from all corners of the world and then repeat it back as the message from the Oracle. It seemed all the city-states of Greece had treasuries here, so much wealth poured in as offerings to Apollo.

This was our first warm day in Greece, walking up the side of Mt Parnassus in 35 C degree heat (95F). Our idea was to stop in the shade and then finally get up to the Stadium where we were high enough to capture the breezes.

There must have been six tour buses, including ours so the idea was to stay just behind one crowd and just in front of the next. There is also a museum at Delphi, which we didn’t have time for as we had to make our way to Meteora.

Amphitheater at Delphi, musical competitions were also held here

Earthquakes changed the area and the Gulf of Corinth which once lapped the base of Mt Parnassus, is not as close and there is a fertile valley floor full of olives and pines.

Month: June 2014