Yesterday we left sweet Montenegro and in a matter of minutes we were in Croatia; both the yellow flag and the Croatian flag were hoisted.
Although it was so close to Croatia, we had to motor a few hours to Cavtat, the first port of entry to clear customs. Cavtat is a small village with beautiful harbourside walks, a lovely harbour and a very villagey feel. We weren’t sure what to expect tying up for customs, anchor out in the harbour and go stern to the quay (dock, for my fellow Americans). Boats moving in and out as soon as they clear customs gives a feeling of franticness – ‘get me off this dock before some megayacht puts his anchor on top of mine and sends it to China’ kind of feeling.
James off to clear customs in Croatia
We saw a few Aussie flags and swimmers passed by and said hello. It was Dennis and Bosjana, sailing on Sarayu from Mooloolaba. They have been sailing in Turkey and Greece, so had some information to help us with next year. We shared some of the local knowledge we gained from John and Tony in Porto Montenegro with them.
We moored in the harbour which meant swims and breeze on a local council mooring, slept well and woke to a sunny day in Cavtat. We took the zodiac into the village and went for a walk along the harbourside, a path that encircles the village.
beautiful clear water in Cavtat harbour
Following a swim, we motored off to Dubrovnik. We did a sail past of the old town from the sea, then proceeded to the marina.
The old harbour of Dubrovnik
We are moored in ACI Marina, up the river from the old fortress town. We caught the bus into the old town and wandered through the marble paved streets.
Dubrovnik
Looking for a laundromat, we came across a cable car going up the mountain behind the Old Town. Instead we took the cable car up for the majestic overview. Here are some photos.
A mixture of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches and buildings, Dubrovnik is known as the Pearl of the Adriactic.Island of Lokrum, just off Dubrovnik. It was once a Benedictine Monastery.
John Stephens recommended a trip up the mountain to the small village of Gornja Lastva and mentioned a restaurant. So we took a taxi up the slope of Vrmac Hill and the taxi driver dropped us off near an old cemetery. This is a tiny village of about 20 stone homes, with just one elderly lady who still lives here on her own. Many of the houses were damaged in the 1979 earthquake and only have one or two walls standing.
the Church, only 600 years old
The church is the Roman Catholic Church of St Mary’s, built circa 1410. We tried the door but it was locked.
Panoramic view of the bay
The view from the yard of the church was spectacular. Nearby there was a lady collecting some flowers and we asked her where the café was, she pointed to a house down the lane. Hesitantly, we wandered down the lane to the house/café.
the streets of Gornja Lastva
They bring us mineral water and sit us in the shade under a giant pine tree, at 710M it is cooler than on the marina. There are a few people in the house preparing food and Emil comes and says hello. He apologises for his English but it is really pretty good. Emil is the last baby to be born in the village, but only comes back to put on Festas or like today, take in a tour group which comes by bus to see an authentic Montenegrin village.
Emil greeted the Tour group and took them for a tour of the church and the olive press. He then took them to the café with its little stands of local products; finally platters of olives, bread, cheese and prosciutto were brought out to them.
Emil then collected us and took us on the tour of the church and the olive press. Tiny bats flew around in the room with the olive press, because it has been dormant for about ten years.
first stage of the olive press, where the olives are pressed by the large stone wheelthe pulp is then added to these rope ‘donuts’ (note there is a sump under the board where the oil drains tothen the ‘donuts’ are pressed
When we got back to our table the friendly tour guide, Dolores from Kotor, had joined our table. One of the village gentlemen, explained to her that they were not a “classical style restaurant”, they only had the platters available.
Frosty and Louise have left us for a small Greek island, with a bar that you can drink at while your feet are wading in the water. After over 500 miles on Mercier, from Malta to Montenegro, another 10 hour drive with Rad through Albania, and a short taxi ride at 160Km per hour to Lefkada, we think they deserve a nice quiet drink with Marg. But we miss them. If you go into photo gallery and click on Kotor, you will see a few more photos of our stay in Montenegro.
Glamourous Porto Montenegro
John Stephens must have heard the sighs coming from Mercier and realised the loss of our playmates was causing us a bit of ennui, so he invited us to a party on Saturday night- a James Bond party. Well actually a Misahara jewelry launch* Hmm, what to wear? 35 degrees and sunny even at 6:00PM.
Porto Montenegro is glamourous and there were quite a few amazing dresses on the tall, slim local beauties. The violin & guitar duo added an air of sophistication to the event.
Wonderful music, wonderful setting
Conversations abounded about cruising in the local area and in Croatia with Aussies John Stephens and PM Marina Director Tony Browne. They are the fonts of local knowledge about sailing in this area.
Fellow Aussie John Stephens has been so welcoming and a font of local knowledgeTony Browne, ex Bruny Island, Aussie is the Marina Director. He has promised great tips for Croatian cruising.
Then came Bond – James Bond, he plummeted off the pontoon into the bay for a high speed chase of the bad guys. That will teach them to spike his drink. Too many photos to add to the page, but click on Photo Gallery and then Bond.
On Monday, we motored over to Kotorski Zaljev, first arriving at the Islands off Perast via narrow straits, with steep green hills on either side of the water way. Think of it as motoring from the RPA in Pittwater up to Cottage Point. Just past half way, we come to the Islands off Perast. We went to the northern end and put down the anchor and had a swim. It was like swimming in the ‘Sound of Music’ with a remarkably alpine look.
Islands off Perast
We were swimming in an ancient ‘fjord’ created as the result of a drowned river valley, but the steep sided mountains made us feel like we were in northern Europe. We admired both small islands both with churches and their spires.
Otok Gospa id Skrpjela or Our Lady of the Rocks has distinctive blue domes and is a manmade island. According to the Thompsons, the island was created by sinking captured pirate ships with stones and sinking them on the reef. In 1452, they found an icon of the Virgin Mary on a stone and in 1630 built a church to her. Every year on 22 July, the townspeople of Perast go out and drop a stone on the reef.
Our Lady of the Rocks
Right next store the island of Sveti Djordje, the site of a very rich Benedictine Abbey. The cypress trees surrounding the Church are striking.
Perast was on the way to Kotor, Mercier is too big to tie up on the quay, but we motored slowly by the UNESCO protected former Venetian maritime center. A city of Venetian style palazzos line the foreshore and go up into the hills.
Perast, incredible Venetian heritage
One afternoon, we passed some very well dressed people in front of a lovely stone building and I wondered if they were going to a wedding. As we came nearer we could see they were at the elegant entrance to the fruit and vegetable store.
At the greengrocers
Approaching Kotor, you see striking mountains, a long fortress wall, used to protect the city and possibly a cruise ship. At the top of the mountain is the Fortress of St John with only 1350 stairs to reach the top. On Monday night, we sat on a rooftop having dinner, listening to music and decided we would start the climb at 8AM on the next morning.
Just some of the stairs up to the fortress- the old town in the triangle below
Louise raced up the mountain, so she would have time to sketch with Frosty right behind her. James stayed with me, while I scheduled strategic stops to take early morning photos of Kotor and the bay.
We have been in some lovely marinas on this trip and last year as well, Bonifacio, Olbia and Puerto Cervo. Here in Montenegro, a large International consortium are building a world class marina to best design.
Old Austro-Hungarian Empire Fortress
Their market is super yachts and even tiny yachts like Mercier, which are one tenth the size. The site was developed in 1889, as a naval base for the Austro-Hungarian Empire, later used by the Yugoslav government for submarines.
Giant mooring buoys for superyachts
Professional, helpful staff greets you on the harbour in a rubber duck, take you to your berth and someone is on the dock, to take your lines. Many marinas do this well. Assistance is so helpful saving us a jump onto the dock. What a view. There is a canal behind us and restaurants, shops and apartment buildings evoking a sense of Venice, which governed Montenegro for hundreds of years. Or as Louise puts it, everything is built on a human scale; the buildings complement each other and the waterfront. There are fountains, flowers and greenery as you walk through the village. The shopkeepers are very friendly; impressed we have come all the way from Australia. They are proud of their marina and their beautiful shops.
Jetty #1
The showers are magnificent, clean and relaxing, so important to someone who has been dealing with birdbaths on a yacht with minimum water storage. But the feature they have done best is their waste management system. We do drink water from plastic bottles but we try to recycle where possible, to assuage the guilt. Generally, garbage is not done well in the Mediterranean, over flowing small bins and no separate bins for glass or plastic. Porto Montenegro marina have invested in a small building with the bins inside, lift a lid for trash, another for paper, glass and plastics. So clean and well kept. 5 gold stars!!
There are lovely restaurants which have indoor-outdoor seating and couches for a coffee with magazines provided and we were never rushed. We loved One, so comfortable in the heat of day. We did think Moritz Eis is great, so white and so cool and we love the flavours. Pear, Orange & ginger and lemon mint. Yum.
Moritz Eis Gelato
Another unusual and helpful feature is Yacht Assist or a concierge for Yachties. Louise and Frosty had to leave Mercier for a small Greek Island via Igoumentisa, Greece. They read about Porto Montenegro’s concierge program, so went and asked advice about how to get to Mitikas, Greece. Novi organized a car, which would take them at their convenience through Albania to Igoumentisa and they had a bit of a tour with Rad giving commentary as well. Having an Aussie, John Stephens, on board at Porto Montenegro is great. He is a great source of information about the Kotor Bay area of Montenegro and answers quite a few questions for us. The most perplexing question was: Why do so many boats in Montenegro wear a US flag? Because they can register online so easily out of Delaware. Very inexpensive and easy to do.
This is not a paid advertisement, I haven’t even rated a free gelato. I love their level of excellence and service. I hope a few other marinas take the recycling and waste management on board.
The joys of cruising are diverse and there is something about every day that brings one type of benefit or another. The last two days have given us both ends of the rainbow.
Saturday we arrived in Bigovo, a small quiet town in a big bay in Zaliv Traste. The bay captured every breeze and we had a swim before lunch on Mercier. We then unloaded the zodiak and motored to the village. A local came and took our lines and told us to tie up to the dock and helped us ashore. We went to the a stone cafe with open rooms in deep shade to have a drink. The cafe was filled with curios and artifacts, the ceiling was a mass of nets like sharks fins. swordfish bills and a giant lobster carcapace. The walls held photos of fish that had been caught and dogs that kept the fishermen happy. Alas no Aperol Spritz! Mineral water and beer had to suffice.
After a small walk along the waterfront, Louise swam back to Mercier, while we motored back for a swim. Once back on Mercier we were all in the water, beating back the heat of the day and enjoying the quiet relaxing pace of Bigovo. In the cool of the evening, we watched a young fisherman lay his nets in the sunset.
Bigovo fisherman collecting his catch next morning
On Sunday, we had a short , leisurely motor to Porto Montenegro, a new, terribly- swish resort. This may have been the nicest marina we have been in, clear instructions on where to go and ultra-clean modern facilities. Wonderful showers are available, something those at home might not even consider, but luxury here.
Louise and Frosty
We walked to old Tivat, but it was hot and Sunday and hot.
Old Tivat
Great shops, markets and wonderful cafes and some of the best ice cream we have had en route.
Superb ice cream from Moritz Eis, Porto Montenegro
Louise and Gaila did a tour of some lovely shops (lovely airconditioning) and purchased sarongs. As glamourous as it is, you can’t jump into the marina to swim and cool off and the boat doesn’t swing to capture the breeze on the bow.
We sailed through the confused seas off of Capo Santa Maria di Leuca, the point where the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea meet. It was confused for several hours and not terribly comfortable.
The large yellow moon was so bright that the stars were very hard to see. Louise and I thought we would take photos. All the caveats for photography of night skies were broken – what good is a tripod on a lurching boat. We could barely keep the moon on the screen, our cameras turned into game consoles. We were giggling and shreiking as the red globe careened over the camera frame.
The Beach at Bar
Midday the next day, we sailed into the Port of Bar, Montenegro. It is a very picturesque harbour and town, mountains coming down to meet the sea. The biggest activity seems to be a passeggiata at sunset, the whole town is out for a walk. During the afternoon it was very quiet but by night Bar comes alive.
Yesterday we left Bar and sailed northwest for a swim in Uvala Canj and then lunch. It was a beautiful spot for a swim and Mercier makes it easy to get off and on the boat. The water is very deep, so has a beautiful warm float on top of a very chilly pond of water.
Island Church, Montenegro
Frosty’s towel must have blown off the rail and you could see it so clearly, he thought he would just be able to swim down and grab it. He realised once he hit the cold water and was no closer that it was 9 metres below us. That towel is Frosty’s gift to Montenegro.
After lunch we sailed a few more miles to the most photographed island in Montenegro, Sveti Stefan. Financed in the 15th Century by reclaiming loot from pirates, a family was able to buy the island, fortify it and build a church. In 1952, the whole island was converted to a luxury hotel. No cajoling could tempt James into leaving the boat, but the resort does look historic and luxurious at the same time.
Sveti Stefano
We anchored off nearer to the swallow’s island and had a lovely barbeque. Along the way near U Canj, we came across two different rock formations abutting each other, this is a visual record between the Triassic-Jurassic Boundary. (Crne, Weissert, et all)
Red rock meets gray rock = Triassic meets Jurassic
Finally, to John and Jenni, so sorry to hear about your bingle, glad you are safe and sound in Italy. Recuperate quickly, enjoy being pampered and then enjoy Italy.
We had a stopover in Calabria at the Marina of Roccella Ionica. We had heard that silting to the entrance of the harbour could be a problem and we should stay to the left. Since a yacht, just about the same size was stuck in the middle of a sand bar, we thank Heikell for the information. He is rather like a patron saint of yachties in the Med. On this approach, you could see who read Heikell and who was stuck on a sandbar.
Upon entering, we found a small tidy marina of Roccella Ionica run by Francesco Lombardi. We were assisted with getting our documents stamped by the Coast Guard and information given about the nearby restaurant. Since we had arrived just hours before sundown, we were in a queue of boats. It was like Friday night on the harbour bridge. He did get everyone’s papers processed. There was a great energy and a great welcome to Marina of Roccella Ionica.
We dress and walk around the marina to the restaurant. There were hundreds of people from the local community as well as many yachties, sitting under a large waxing moon at the outdoor tables. There were tables for twenty and tables for two, children and puppies wandered through the table. Pizza was served, not by a slice or a pie but in either a half metre or metre, on a long narrow board. We had fish and pasta but everyone’s food looked good. The camaraderie of whole families in the restaurant, children playing clap hands and dancing, wishing Auguri for someone’s birthday, made for a fairytale evening.
Lighthouse and full moon
Another early start found us sailing for ten hours to Santa Maria di Leuca. We all keep watch for lobster pots and ships, but James and Louise do Sudoku. Louise is also sketching every day. Frosty and Gaila are writing and journaling. We also listen to talking books and podcasts. There is no small amount of chatting and cooking going on.
Louise and Frosty
What does it take to do ten hours of sailing a day? Chocolate and fruit.
We arrive at Santa Maria di Leuca about 5:00pm. As we sail in, the brass band strikes up an Italian song and we are wondering why they are so excited by our arrival? Ah, but no. It is the boat behind us with a large number of Italian Youth Sailors, who are circumnavigating Italy and being feted at different ports during their summer holidays.
We shower and go straight out to a lovely restaurant, walking under the full moon, which was extremely large and beautiful. As we go, we pick out the house we want for our Italian fixer upper. There are some beautiful houses here and lovely gardens too. We all have a favorite, each usually a bit run down but quite grand with colonades.
Our last meal in Italy.Mussels for lunch
The next morning, James goes with all our paperwork and hands in our Italian cruising permit. The border patrol actually drives to us from about sixty minutes away, saving us a long sail to Brindisi. They stamp us out of the EU, we are off to Montenegro. Just one last gelato before we go!
With Frosty and Louise on board, we are putting a lot of miles under our belt. We left Malta and sailed north to Siracusa, where we stocked up on food and drink and sent Louise and Frosty in to Ortigia Island to wander the Triqs or small streets of the historic center. They promised they didn’t miss one. We had a lovely seafood dinner in the narrowest of alleys, with tables running down either side, so that the waiters and passersby had to turn sideways to move by.
We left Siracusa at dawn, the white stoned city was awash with the dawn’s rosy red light.
Louise watching the sunrise
On passage, you are motor sailing or sailing, not really stopping until late afternoon or sunset. Time is passed by seeing other vessels and creatures of the sea.
First the creatures, yesterday we saw two Beluga whales, they were very snub nosed and a bit mottled in colour, not pure white. They crossed our bow so languidly, we had to change course, so as not to collide. They were beautiful in the clear blue Ionian Sea. Sadly no photos, the seas were confused and the cockpit wet, so all the electronics were down below. We had a great sail, 8 knots for seven hours in a very confused seaway. Mercier handled it well.
We have seen many flying fish and the dolphins have been coming over most days for a cursory nod hello, before returning to herding fish. We have also seen a sunfish. First thinking we were seeing a shark, it flipped over and we could see it was a sunfish. Happy we didn’t hit it as they eat jellyfish, that has to be a good thing. How do we get a sunfish into Jerusalem Bay to clean up some of those jellyfish?
Here are some photos of vessels who have made our day. Our Bling boat was a Pirate Go-Fast motor boat. Our image of a drug smuggler’s boat. We didn’t think he was running drugs or cigarettes, as the gold varnish and the panther on the side made him infinitely identifiable. As he passed us, he revved his engine to give us a rooster tail of great shimmering plummage.
Pirate Go Fast Boat – note the jaguar
As we are sailing, the horizon is misty and a big ship will look like a silouhette until it comes a bit closer. This ship looked like a tower block. The procedure is to quickly check the plotter and see if the ship is named on AIS (Automated Identification System). This hulk wasn’t but James and Frosty got out the binoculars and decided that perhaps it may be a military vessel. Our AIS reports that we may be on a collision course of within 11 – 50 metres.
Another check on the AIS, which now gives us a number, far short of the usual identifier, momentarily it changes again and it says “French Naval Warship”. We were then perused by their helicopter, which we could see take off from the ship and then circle us and then circle a wider perimeter.
French Naval Warship
Frosty will give us a replay of the radio conversation.
At the same time, we were within a mile of Italian territorial waters, and an Italian tanker was approaching us on a reciprocal course. The French were approaching from starboard. The tanker called up on channel 16 “French Naval Warship, this is tanker Mercator, what are your intentions”
“Thees is French Naval Warship, I am conducting zee flying operations, please alter course to pass 1 mile astern”
“Er, Um, I canta do that, there is this sailing sheep”
“Thees is French Naval warship, please pass 1 mile astern”
“No, ees not possible, there is a sailing sheep in the way, I will hold my course”
By that time, we had altered course to starboard, and slowed down, just as the French sped up and announced that they would alter course to port.
It all passed without any collision, but the Italians were not keen to give way to the French within a mile of their own territorial waters, and it was good to know we rated as a “sailing sheep”. It was a small bit of excitement to break the monotony of a long passage.
Happy Belated Birthday, Graham Bradley – forgive us for being late, but we lost connectivity for awhile there. Congratulations on being named head of Infrastructure NSW, we can sigh in relief knowing NSW will be in better shape when we return.
In case, we lose connectivity again, Happy Birthday to my cousins, Ed De Angelo Jerry Johnson and Erin Gaffney, as well as our Greats Iris and Raffy. We wish all you July babies a very happy day.
James and Frosty – underneath the full moon in Santa Maria de Leuca
