Travel – Page 9 – Sailing Azure Seas

Passage in Southern Italy

With Frosty and Louise on board, we are putting a lot of miles under our belt. We left Malta and sailed north to Siracusa, where we stocked up on food and drink and sent Louise and Frosty in to Ortigia Island to wander the Triqs or small streets of the historic center. They promised they didn’t miss one. We had a lovely seafood dinner in the narrowest of alleys, with tables running down either side, so that the waiters and passersby had to turn sideways to move by.

We left Siracusa at dawn, the white stoned city was awash with the dawn’s rosy red light.

On passage, you are motor sailing or sailing, not really stopping until late afternoon or sunset. Time is passed by seeing other vessels and creatures of the sea.

First the creatures, yesterday we saw two Beluga whales, they were very snub nosed and a bit mottled in colour, not pure white. They crossed our bow so languidly, we had to change course, so as not to collide. They were beautiful in the clear blue Ionian Sea. Sadly no photos, the seas were confused and the cockpit wet, so all the electronics were down below. We had a great sail, 8 knots for seven hours in a very confused seaway. Mercier handled it well.

We have seen many flying fish and the dolphins have been coming over most days for a cursory nod hello, before returning to herding fish. We have also seen a sunfish. First thinking we were seeing a shark, it flipped over and we could see it was a sunfish. Happy we didn’t hit it as they eat jellyfish, that has to be a good thing. How do we get a sunfish into Jerusalem Bay to clean up some of those jellyfish?

Here are some photos of vessels who have made our day. Our Bling boat was a Pirate Go-Fast motor boat. Our image of a drug smuggler’s boat. We didn’t think he was running drugs or cigarettes, as the gold varnish and the panther on the side made him infinitely identifiable. As he passed us, he revved his engine to give us a rooster tail of great shimmering plummage.

Pirate Go Fast Boat - note the jaguar — Pirate Go Fast Boat – note the jaguar

As we are sailing, the horizon is misty and a big ship will look like a silouhette until it comes a bit closer. This ship looked like a tower block. The procedure is to quickly check the plotter and see if the ship is named on AIS (Automated Identification System). This hulk wasn’t but James and Frosty got out the binoculars and decided that perhaps it may be a military vessel. Our AIS reports that we may be on a collision course of within 11 – 50 metres.

Another check on the AIS, which now gives us a number, far short of the usual identifier, momentarily it changes again and it says “French Naval Warship”. We were then perused by their helicopter, which we could see take off from the ship and then circle us and then circle a wider perimeter.

Frosty will give us a replay of the radio conversation.

At the same time, we were within a mile of Italian territorial waters, and an Italian tanker was approaching us on a reciprocal course. The French were approaching from starboard. The tanker called up on channel 16 “French Naval Warship, this is tanker Mercator, what are your intentions”

“Thees is French Naval Warship, I am conducting zee flying operations, please alter course to pass 1 mile astern”

“Er, Um, I canta do that, there is this sailing sheep”

“Thees is French Naval warship, please pass 1 mile astern”

“No, ees not possible, there is a sailing sheep in the way, I will hold my course”

By that time, we had altered course to starboard, and slowed down, just as the French sped up and announced that they would alter course to port.

It all passed without any collision, but the Italians were not keen to give way to the French within a mile of their own territorial waters, and it was good to know we rated as a “sailing sheep”. It was a small bit of excitement to break the monotony of a long passage.

Happy Belated Birthday, Graham Bradley – forgive us for being late, but we lost connectivity for awhile there. Congratulations on being named head of Infrastructure NSW, we can sigh in relief knowing NSW will be in better shape when we return.

In case, we lose connectivity again, Happy Birthday to my cousins, Ed De Angelo Jerry Johnson and Erin Gaffney, as well as our Greats Iris and Raffy. We wish all you July babies a very happy day.

James and Frosty - underneath the full moon in Santa Maria de Leuca — James and Frosty – underneath the full moon in Santa Maria de Leuca

Grand Harbour, Valetta

It is ‘festa’ time in Valetta and Malta, fireworks day & night, church bells ringing and general music playing at all hours of the day. Yesterday, we decided to escape Manoel Island and go to Città Vittoriosa or Il Birgu on the Grand Harbour.

In one of the bays in the Grand Harbour – banners & flags galore

We took a bus to Vittoriosa and then took a traditional Maltese dghajsa or Maltese gondola across Grand Harbour. Grand Harbour is a huge natural harbour right next door to Marsamxett Harbour, which is where Mercier is berthed. It was fun to see Il Birgu also dressed up for Festa where not only did they have church bells but a rave going on.

Street scene from Vittoriosa — Street in Vittoriosa

Here we are in a small gondola, looking up at pontoons of Super yachts and Mega yachts. We are deposited in Valletta on the waterfront. The gondola driver points to a big tower lift and says that will take us up to Valletta to Upper Barracca Gardens.

View from the upper gardens over the harbour — View from the Upper Barrracca Gardens over the harbour

Time to get back to Mercier and meet Stu Williamson, a great friend of John and Jenny’s. Stu is currently working in Malta and took us out and showed us a bit of Sliema, after a quick drink on Mercier. We have a sworn affidavit attesting the noise levels and the daytime fireworks. Stu has been in Malta for awhile and he couldn’t answer our question: why the daytime fireworks? either. Still sitting on the balcony in the evening, watching the moon rise over Valletta, with beautiful fireworks going off every ten minutes or so, we did enjoy the lights over the harbour and the very congenial company.

Birthdays are coming up: Happy birthday Barbara for the 14th, glad you had fun in Berlin. Auguri Carmelita, for the 15th and Ed Earl, a very happy birthday celebration with great friends and most importantly – great advice. Very importantly, Bon Voyage to Frosty and Louise, travel safely.

Malta, Valletta, Manoel Island and Spinola Bay

When you are travelling, you have go to sources of information about your port of call: Marine Pilots, Lonely Planet, Wikipedia and Trip Advisor. If you are very lucky, you find a book about the place like The Leopard about Sicily. If any one knows a great book about Malta, email us but I am sure to find a book or a novel about the Crusades and the Knights of St John. The history here is remarkable, even in this history rich area of the world.

Malta is comprised of three islands, roughly 1/3 the size of Fraser Island or about the same size as the Isle of Wight or Martha’s Vineyard. It has a population of 400,000+.

On entering the harbour you can't help but be awe inspired by the World Heritage listed city — On entering the harbour you can’t help but be awe inspired by the World Heritage listed city

We have spent time walking the bastions of Valetta and the city.

Last night we took the bus out to Spinola Bay from Valletta. There were several restaurants on the bay and we were lucky enough to find the best mussels in Malta at Ristorante San Giuliano. You dine on an al fresco terrace overlooking Spinola Bay, the area is alive with people in boats, walking along the board walk or having dinner and enjoying the view.

We are just beginning to explore, so we won’t write much but here are some photos.

Outlook from Caffe Rafffael, Spinola Bay — Outlook over Caffe Rafffael, Spinola Bay

Vista after dark — Vista from Ristorante San Giuliano after dark

To sleep, perchance to dream.

We arrived at Riposto after battling 30+ bullets of wind coming down from Mt Etna. We are sleep deprived, because for nights we have been joggled and jiggled in marinas or at anchor. There has been no respite. There hasn’t been much sleep either, so we were glad to get into Riposto which is very well protected and the promise of stillness made us smile. There was a 40 metre motor yacht, with a 5 piece jazz band playing Cole Porter and Sinatra on the upper deck. Sublime.

Then suddenly the cacophony began. We realised it was a Feast day or a festival and initially the church bells rang ever so politely. At first one church beginning and we sighed, smiling when they finished, one minute later the next church would begin, ending finally in dueling church bells Do you know how many churches are in even a small town like Riposto?

Ah, but the bells weren’t the end of the noise; even in daytime, there were rounds of fireworks. Loud fireworks from Riposto pier in broad daylight with puffs of white smoke. Later, louder fireworks from nearby Giarre. Then more church bells, changing churches but going discordantly for about 20 minutes. Please note this was Saturday. They went into the night with the last splendid 60 minute fireworks display taken in by we two zombies. Pale faces and dark circles under our eyes, clapping feebly, wishing for the noise to stop. We collapsed into bed and slept so soundly until the church bells began ringing to wake us for matins, here at 6:15 am.

Youth sailors training in their Optimists in the sheltered area in the yet to be built marina extension

We couldn’t spend a whole noisy Sunday here in Riposto, so we decided we would take the train to Taormina. We had missed Taormina because it was too windy to anchor in the bay yesterday. The train station is beautiful. Giardini-Taormina, a very 18th-19th century station, with beautiful columns and painted ceilings. We took the bus up the 2 km hairpin turn path. Breathtaking.

What it is about hill top villages? Especially hilltop villages that over look the sea, Taormina is beautiful and ancient. Shops abound up and down every alley. We peered into bakeries of beautiful marzipan, cannoli, almond biscuits and toffees. Gelaterias and cafes abound.

We looked onto balconies planted with flowers and pots of majolica soldiers. We ambled, looking at shops and found ourselves at the Teatro Greco. The Greeks, thousands of years ago, built a theatre in Taormina and the arches behind the stage looked out over Mount Etna. The Greeks were perhaps the original view junkies.

The vista through one of the arches, Mt Etna in the backgroung — The vista through one of the arches, Mt Etna in the background

One of the artifacts, maybe it is Greek for "dammed pigeons" — One of the artifacts, maybe it is Greek for “dammed pigeons”

I just keep looking at Etna, saying please don’t explode, I like you just the way you are.

The view we had at dinner tonight, note that Mt Etna is 11,000 ft high

[For the two hours we having been working on this blog, the church bells have rung for about 35 minutes, simultaneously with wonderful fireworks and in the foreground the restaurant’s band singing the Beatles. Tonight, we aren’t so tired, we are enchanted.

Vulcano, Straits of Messina and Messina

Yesterday, we spent a very quiet day at Vulcano, one of the two active volcanoes in the Aeolinan Islands. The smell of sulphur is redolent over the island and even out on the boats, it wafts out on a continuous cloud belched out by Vulcano.

We had just anchored and we looked up and saw a water spout hanging from a increasingly dark cloud. We race for the cameras, hoping the water spout will keep going and pass us all by.

The water spout does disappear, but we have a sudden intense squall. In thirty minutes, the rain moved away and just an hour later the beach was pink and golden in sunset.

Today was a red letter day, we were up early to be on our way to catch the right current to take us through the Messina Straits. Here is where Odysseus had to worry about Scilla and Charybdis. Water spouts are common and one book wondered if it was a waterspout that carried off six men. There are whirlpools at several places along the straits, not as strong now as in antiquity but I wouldn’t like to be caught in a squall in this narrow funnel between the Ionian Sea and the Tyrrhenian Sea. The current is visible in the Straits and going against it is very hard work. The Swordfish boats are quite unique and there were several trying to sneak up on sleeping sword fish as we were coming through the Straits.

Swordfish fishing - the boat is driven by the skipper at the top of the mast and if they spot a swordfish on the surface the run to the end of the bowsprit arrangement and harpoon the swordfish — Swordfish fishing – the boat is driven by the skipper at the top of the mast and if they spot a swordfish on the surface they run to the end of the bowsprit arrangement and harpoon the swordfish

We had a look at Messina this afternoon, the Duomo’s Bell Tower is fascinating. Messina itself is very new, compared to Italy in general, first it was flattened in a earthquake and then heavily bombed in WWll, some beautiful old buildings are still standing.

Volcanoes, Lipari and Stromboli

We are in the Aeolian Islands, aka Lipari Islands. I have been under the misapprehension that these were two separate groups of islands. Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian Islands and people use the names interchangeably. These islands are all volcanic with two active volcanoes.

We met a very nice lady from Manly, who inherited a house on Lipari from her grandparents. She was born and raised in Sydney, but now spends her Australian winter here in Lipari. After WWll, 23,000 people left the Aeolian Islands, mainly for Australia and a lesser amount went to Argentina. Many of those people still live today in Five Dock. In fact the owner of the marina we stayed in, the excellent Eol Mare in Pignataro, has family in Five Dock. On the beach in Canneto, we saw an Aussie flag waving proudly.

Eol Mare, Pignataro is about 2 kms out of the center of town, with plenty of bus services and taxis. We thought a hotel van was the bus on our first day, we waved him down and he gave us a lift into Lipari.

The marina’s in town played a breathtaking game of Duelling Masts, in fact, the advice is if you stay there sandwich yourself in between two motor boats, so you don’t have to worry about your mast being dealt a death blow from a larger yacht. We were watching two masts one afternoon and we couldn’t look away. Lipari has every type of sailing vessel known to man and the effect of the wash was terrible to behold.

We took a walk up to the Cathedrale di San Bartholmeo with more of the steep flat stairs to negotiate. We had heard the paintings were of a high standard, but what was fascinating was the door to the old Norman Church, circa 1053, which became a Benedictine Monastery. It was very rustic and the old columns were re-used Roman Columns. There were also tiled floors in a partial reclamation like those we had seen in Ostia Antica.

The Norman Church annexe of San Bartolomeo

Yesterday, we went on an excursion to Panarea and Stromboli, stopping for a swim off the coast of Isola Panarea and then going to the village of Panarea, which is very stylish and trendy. If I were coming to the Aeolian Islands, I would be quite happy to spend it on Panarea, the islands was beautiful.

Off we went to Stromboli, which Heikell says is the original lighthouse. You would be able to chart your course through the Messina Straits by charting. Stromboli guided the Big O ‘towards the twin perils of Scylla and Charybdis’.

Strombolicchio, a volcanic plug just NE of Stromboli

On the island, you see quite a bit of posted material on meetings points for earthquakes, tsunamis and a big blow. The sand beaches are obsidian black, shiny and belie the fact, that while Stromboli seems tame, it may only be temporary.

Termini Imerese and Santa Marina Salina

Termini is the next stop out of Palermo, the old town Termini is around the port within city gates, the modern Termini Alta is high on a bastion wall and has wonderful views out over the sea and the lower town. There is train service, which makes it a good port for crew changeover.

Termini has a very large port and they are upgrading all the facilities and putting the smaller boats in a marina closer to the rocky beach and creating an entertainment district with discotheques and bars in the area. Still work to be done there, but a nice jazz bar on an old boat.

There were views to be seen and so we began our walk up the hill, viewing an old Art Deco hotel, we walked over and peeked inside. It had seen better days but was a lovely old hotel.

San Calogero and Termini Imerese — San Calogero and the vista from Termini Imerese

There was a switchback road with stairs and so we began our climb. This is a very workaday town, not really a tourist tidy town. Nonetheless, Termini Alta had a wonderful charm, a lovely walk along the bastion, looking over the port and the mountain, San Calogero which overlooks the town.

The big surprise was the Via Roma, a long flat-stair case street, that links the two ‘stories’ of Termini. There is a Sicilian photographer, Michele Salvo, who captured it in 1920, you can see it here: http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=1941363

We were walking down this beautiful street between homes and we turned a corner and all of a sudden we were in the shopping district. Shoes and clothing shops were everywhere, the side walk was about six inches wide, cars had a bit more room. There were surprises around each corner.

The next morning we had a full ten hours of motor sailing to take us the Aeolian Islands. We had planned to anchor in Isola Filicudi but the anchorage would have been exposed to the sloppy swell, so we decided to press on to Isole Salina.

A New Zealand boat preceded us into the marina, so we waited until they were tied on and then moored stern to next to them. There were three lovely Kiwis on board C’est Ma Vie, owned by Graeme Duncalf, with crew Neil Strom and Brian Reid*, all ex-Cherub sailors. [It is everything I can do not to make Cherub jokes, restraint is a necessary part of valour. It is Italy, there are cherubs at every turn.]

We had drinks on board C’est Ma Vie to watch the sun go down and the Super moon come up. There was a discussion of where we all were going and where both yachts had been. Then Graeme said, ” I have friends in Sydney, from my Cherub days, The Wilmots and also a bloke named Geoff Davidson.” We laughed. When I said who did you sail against Jamie or Bobby, he said “Actually Janine and Mandy”

It is hard to explain how good it was to be speaking English [of sorts] and also good to share stories about The Wilmots and Davo. Graeme said he had both his legs, because Davo warned him off swimming or windsurfing in Middle Harbour because of all the sharks. I had to tell Graeme about Davo saving me from the Killer Goanna one Christmas holiday, so we agreed Davo knows about dangerous animals. Crikey, there might be a job for Davo in TV.

Stromboli in view, hard to believe it is almost 50 km away

Ciaobella, until Lipari.

*PS note the change of surnames for Brian and Neil. Our wonderful neighbours, John and Jenny, who are originally from NZ, emailed to tell us we had the surnames wrong. They identified Neil and told us what a top bloke he is. Two degrees of separation.

Capo San Marco, Carloforte and Porto Teulada

We have had a few days to miss the Swannos & our very fun travel with them on Mercier. We had excellent weather and saw some wonderful ports. As soon as they left the sky went gray, so we took ourselves for a walk on the Bastione or sea wall of Alghero. That night we went to a wonderful restaurant, Ristorante O with Irish Masterchef E. O’Neill. There are so many great restaurants in Alghero, nice clothing shops too.

Monday, we anchored in Capo San Marco, an incredible mooring right in front of Roman ruins.The moorings were large and when we pulled one up, there were mussels under the mooring. There are no restaurants or shops only ruins and new excavations, but we had a lovely dinner on the boat and chatted about who was having a birthday this month:

Happy Birthday ( a bit late) to Richard and to my baby sister Linda, who had a wonderful 50th birthday on the 6th. Gai is on the 11th, Colin is going to have a wonderful birthday on June 12th, Happy birthday! Susan B is the 16th, Rowena is the 17th – know you two will be spoiled by your sweet husbands. Our nephew Mike too, Happy Birthday. We wish you all a very happy birthday.

We also spent a few hours trying to work with “Follow me” until we found our blog is not set for follow me,sorry it isn’t working and we will try again.

Early the next day, we woke up and found it was an early departure because the breeze freshens in the afternoon. Next port of call is Carloforte which is quite a nice town, with a salt marsh and flamingos. It seems there are several reserves for flamingos in South Western Sardinia. We found a gelaterie and we walked all around the town. In our marina, there was a very nice little cafe, and they had lovely couches, great music and Aperol spritzers.

Sardinian Flamingos in the salt pans near the marina

Wall built by Victor Emmanuel to protect the town from Tunisian pirates (this is on the far side of town away from the port)

We left early again this morning and arrived in a mistral at Porto Teulada, there is a town about 8 kilometres away and we were very happy to get to the marina before the wind, possibly a mistral came by. With any luck, we will leave early to be in Cagliari, because Teulada is perfectly quiet for one day but two days wouldn’t be nearly as fun.

Swannos, Sunshine & Superyachts

I should say I know I shouldn’t use alliteration but this all fits together so smoothly. Let me explain – Sue and Swanno arrived yesterday about 5 PM to a windy evening in Olbia but at least the sun was shining.

A minute to drop off the bags and the four of us go into Oblia to visit friend’s Kate and Mike on Voyager of Noosa at the Olbia Yacht Club near the centre of town. We had a nice little bottle of Mercier Champagne and had a tour of Voyager. Then off to a very nice Sardinian trattoria for a lovely dinner.

This morning, we were up and away early, it was clear, sunny and the breeze was light. We sailed pass acres of mussel farms as we sailed north towards Porto Cervo. As we were sailing out of the Golfo Aranci, we came across a pod of dolphins fishing, glistening in the sun. They sailed around the boat, not wanting to be distracted from their fishing.

There was enough wind and enough sailors on board to christen the code zero. Swanno and James were up the bow putting the Code up and we sailed off Porto Cervo right to the middle of the Super Yachts on Day three of the Dubois series.

There were a number of Dubois yachts racing (14) and another group of Dubois yachts just there as spectators. It felt like Mercier was a dingy in comparison. These yachts are between 100 feet and 190 feet long- amazing to watch, all seemed to have had about 20+ crew to keep them moving.

We are on our way to the La Maddelena and we have been told about a lovely protected bay to anchor in for the evening. The astonishing fact is that none of us are wearing jackets or scarves or sweaters. – it is sunny, the wind is light and it is warm. We have a lovely Italian meal on the back deck with music and sunshine. Perfetto!

We wake early to another sunny day. We are sailing north to the top of Sardinia. We are on our way to a small fishing village. James points out Bonifacio, across the straits and says “Bonifacio is just about 11 miles away. We all digest the fact that one of the more picturesque towns in all of the Mediterranean is just a few miles away, A quick discussion, a few calculations, smiles; we tack and sail to Bonifacio. Minutes later, a flock of flamingoes soars by overhead. It is a vision of pink, grey and black, shining in the sun, we think we have made the right decision.

Ischia sings a song

James and I have taken Italian 101 about 9 times and one of our teachers in Sydney was Giacomo, who came from Ishcia. He told us while breaking into song in class that in Ischia everyone sings.

Approaching Ischia from Ventotene, we sailed past the northern part of the island. From a distance, you could be looking at a Hawaiian Island, the same vision of lush green tropical foliage. It is easy to pick out the Volcanic crater that created the island, you can see where, hundreds of years ago, part of the rim has been blown off. Approaching from sea, it is spectacular, because you see not only fertile Ischia, but Procida and in the distance the Italian mainland.

Porto Ischia is full, so we proceed to Casamicciola, moor the boat and head off to explore.

Casamicciola is fairly quiet in the afternoon, just a few shops open and this is partly due to the heat. Italy has been having a heat wave and everyone is inside escaping the heat. Casamicciola is vibrant in the evening, with everyone out for their passeggiaata, buying gelato and wandering up and down the waterfront. But now we jump on a bus and head to Ischia the town. This is a much busier but very touristy part of Ischia. Lots of shops and restaurants with photo menus and masses of day trippers who come over from Naples on the ferry. After trying on a few pairs of shoes, we headed over to the Castello Aragonese.

Wikipedia tells us Castello Aragonese, the fortress initially built by the Hiero of Syracuse in 474 BC on an islet rock near Ischia. In 1441 Alfonso V of Aragon connected the rock to the island with a stone bridge. We were particularly taken with the sight of Mount Vesuvius from the bridge.

We wander around laneways and waterfront, saving hills and stairs for Sunday. We had a wonderful dinner at Ristorante da Ciccio with the venerable Mr da Ciccio and the lovely Carlo bringing us wonderful food, with beautiful music and a peaceful ambience in busy Ischia.

Sunday morning, we headed off to Giardini La Mortella (Place of the Mrytles), this stunning garden was started in 1956 by English composer, William Walton and his wife Susana. They purchased this land in a disused rock quarry and they collected specimens from all over the world to grow in this rich volcanic soil.

Category: Travel