Sailing Azure Seas

As sometimes happens, we chose to stay in a marina which is at the far reaches of town.  Usually, as is the case here in Aquasanta, you just jump on a bus and go into town with the locals. Greater Palermo is a city of around a million and it is noisy, dirty, bustling and energetic. Palermo is a synonym of chaos, but a very likeable chaos.

We asked the bus driver if the bus would take us to Palermo ‘Centro’ and he waved us on the bus.  We ride into town, not quite knowing where we were on the map, but then the driver calls Centro and we get off the bus. We turn left and a horn blares, it is our very sweet bus driver telling us to go the other way and then turn again. We find ourselves quickly on the main street in town.  Palermo is friendly.

We find so many shops, especially shoe shops.  On a street adjacent to a big church, you will find a whole street of baby shops for all the wee babes being baptised and one funeral parlour.

Sicily seems to have been conquered by every nation, but it was always the outpost.  That usually meant these nations and emperors took the people’s wealth home with them and left the people in poverty.  The Catholic Church was seemingly the only exception, Palermo like most Italian towns has a large number of churches, many old and ornate.  Most of the landmark buildings in Palermo are gorgeous and ostentatious churches. They have chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and they are ornate and gilt.

The museum is mainly full of religious art, of churches damaged over the ages or in the bombing of WWll.  There are a few older stone sculptures but it would seem 90% of the art is religious.

There is a high street or fashion centre in Palermo, all the fashion houses are on a main boulevard and there are so many shoe shops at Sydney prices.  There are plenty of restaurants from street food to trattoria and restaurants. Almost strangely, we had to track down a gelateria, we only saw a few, but we did see fish sellers and Signora Fruit and Vegetable was happy to pose for a picture.

Now onto to Termini Imerese, what will we find there?

 

We took a 40 minute bus ride to Trapani, a busy port we sailed by on Monday.  As it is a commercial port, they have many additional rules to follow and the port isn’t as clean as San Vito lo Capo.

Trapani has a beautiful old Centro historico and a lovely park. It is a very big town, but we went down to the port and old town and wandered around looking at the almost patchwork of different architectural styles, as Trapani has evolved over the centuries. Each church isn’t only influenced by the order of priests but of the time it was built.

We also enjoyed the green space of Villa Margharita, with old giant figs and geese and other birds in enclosures. It was a cool place to be in the midday heat  and there were quite a few tourists there, because other than a few restaurants, everything closes for several hours at lunch.

Some of the buildings in the Corso Victor Emmanuel and the Palazzo Cavarretta are so Rococo giving the impression they are made of nougat and meringue.  In the afternoon, we were on the old wall over looking the sea, which in the mornings holds a market and discovered a Gelateria who had beautiful ices and gelato, but also pastries.  The cannoli shells were there above the gelato and you could have your shelf stuffed with ricotta ice cream or the traditional ricotta mixture. We sat outside on ottomans and enjoyed the ambience.

Back in San Vito lo Capo, we walked along the foreshore and then along the beach.

We had read quite a bit about the September Couscous festival and decided to go to a couscouseria for dinner.  We both ordered different flavours of couscous. They first create the broth to go with your meal, mine was a broth of citrus and tuna; James had a tomato based broth with mixed seafood.  But each of our couscous was a match to our broth.  James’ couscous had a tomato colour with prawns, shrimp and fish. My couscous was a brownish hue with almonds, citrus and eggplant.  You then spoon the broth from your individual bowl onto your mound of couscous.  It was very tasty and quite a different presentation.  Not the generic couscous that we have prepared with meals,not the much plainer alternative.

This morning we sailed off in a wonderful procession of boats to Zingaro, water temperature of 24 degrees, so we anchored and swam with half a dozen other boats.  Then we continued on to the feudal village of Scopello, with it’s craggy rocks off the town, one with an ancient fortification perched atop of it.

Finally we reached Castellammare del Golfo, we wandered up to the old Castle and looked back to the boats in the harbour.  It was siesta, it’s taken very seriously here.

Cagliari is Sardinia’s capital  as well as it’s largest city. As a town it is very large and spread out, so we only saw some of the sights. Cagliari’s history, starts with the Neolithic period and like all of Italy has had many rulers throughout the ages.

The Castello is a Pisan fortress up above the Marina district and it has several gates and two towers.  Towers mean stairs which also means stunning views from  the outdoor cafes looking onto the whole city.

In the east of town is a beautiful and busy beach called Poetto. It was absolutely alive with teenagers, all being seen on the beach.   Nearby, are the salt marshes, which are home to the graceful flamingoes that fly over the city just before sunset each day.

Two days in Cagliari were spent on boat maintenance, which means we will have to visit again to visit the Flamingos and the wineries.

We have a certain number of ‘Euro Days’ – we only have 90 days to spend in the Euro Zone every six months. While we wanted to visit a bit more of Cagliari, we have to be out of of the EU by the end of July.  This informs our decisions about how long we can stay on each island or in each port, so that we get to Corfu and out before our time is up.  Luckily at this stage, Croatia hasn’t signed the agreement so after our ‘Euro Days’ are up, we can spend several months in Croatia and also hope to see Montenegro.

We had a very light wind with calm seas on our passage to Sicily from Sardinia.  It was warm enough to camp in the cockpit and we both stood watch while the other cat napped. It was very serene and then suddenly we had a small pod of dolphins come and travel with us for about 20 minutes, but this was the comedy troupe.  These young dolphins were doing belly flops, side flops and surfing the bow wave with great enthusiasm.  They loved our applause and seemed quite happy to pose for photographs.

In Osti Antica, dolphins were an oft repeated mural in the warehouses and shops. Dolphins were very popular with the sailors in ancient Rome and now. A pod of dolphins visiting brings an infusion of enthusiasm and laughter and we were both energised by their gymnastics and happy spirit.

Our next port is  Favignana or Odysseus’s Goat Island in the Isole Aegadi group. We look out into the distance and think we can see them rising out of the mists.

In the Med, although we are on a sailboat, we are often motor sailing. Usually because there isn’t enough wind, there is too much wind or the wind is coming from where you are going, otherwise known as Rules of the Med.

Thursday’s sail from Castelsardo to Stintino, was a ripper.  The sun was shining and we departed the marina. We were saying goodbye to the Citadel and the breeze filled in to the NE.  This was very reminiscent of  an old fashioned Sydney North Easter.

James and Donald had the spinnaker out ‘tout suite’. Swanno was on the bow feeding the spinnaker out of the bag, Sue and I were in the pit and we were pulling it up. Suddenly, we see Swanno lurch, then the spinnaker pulling him over the side of the boat. He pulled himself and the spinnaker back in – sigh of relief from the pit and the captain. Swanno’s balance tested and he won gold. Very happy not to have a man overboard exercise in Sardinia.

We arrived at Stintino, a small fishing village and went for a small walk around the marinas and through the town. We had a lovely dinner as we listened to the church bells ring out Ave Maria.

We left very early the next morning, in very light winds and motored through the Fornelli Straits. The water was like glass and you could look down 3 metres and see weed and sea cucumbers through the aqua water. The water was crystal clear, the sky was blue, the sun was out.  On the passage, dolphins came and said hello and then continued on their way. But there were more surprises ahead.

Sighting Capo Caccia, a marine reserve one hour west of Alghero, we are surprised at how tall and how beautiful this majestic limestone promontory is . Capo Caccia is a striking vision as you approach it from the sea. We slowed to look at an excursion boat seemingly stuck in a cave entrance.  Then rounded this 186 metre towering headland and found the sun shining, azure waters and the water was 20.3C.   The water was warming up, so we stopped the boat and most of the crew had a magnificent swim.

In the cliffs, there were small holes that the wind had created. We saw pigeons flying in and out. We could also view swallows, large gulls and a peregrine falcon. A fleet of kayakers came by in their red kayaks and yellow vests gliding right next to the dive boat where everyone was dressed in black.

Eventually it was time to head into the fortress city of Alghero, and a wander through the old fortress, the markets and of course the hunt for the wonderful gelato.

Tonight is Sue and Swannos last night and we have a wonderful meal and then back to Mercier to celebrate the 150 miles we have sailed together over the past week.  It has been so much fun. Same time next year?

In case you missed the last blog, we had a lovely detour into Bonifacio.  Sue hadn’t been there for 31 years and Donald hadn’t been there ever, so a trip seemed mandatory.  Bonifacio is so lovely that I was ready to return after a week.

The pen we were given was a pen right at the dock, 50 inches to the nearest restaurant.  Donald actually jumped off at the end of the arm, to check that there would be enough room and to take the stern lines. We backed down to the space and 39 diners put down their forks and watched James put Mercier into the confined space. At the best of times, mooring and anchoring are a tense task.  With the feeling the whole of Bonifacio was watching, the pressure was certainly on.  Thank goodness for James great eyesight and bow thrusters!  Donald took the stern lines and bounded back on board.  There was a collective sigh of relief by the crew and the diners had to continue with their lunches without any amusing incidents to fill their postcards. Not to worry, a few charter yachts, which berthed on the next arm, gave them ample material to send home.

 

Luckily, it was only a week, since James and I had been to Bonifacio.  Did I mention that my friend Sue is a fitness trainer?   Not to mention, Donald is hyperfit  and has incredible balance*.  Sue says like a ‘monkey on springs’.   James and I had climbed to the Citadel three times last week, so we could almost keep up with the Swannos as they bounded up the steps.  Sue saw amazing changes since she had last been in Bonifacio, so I will let her tell us about it.

SUE: ‘ 31 years since I last sailed into Bonifaccio & was delighted when we berthed in almost exactly the same position as on that last visit. However the ‘town Quay’ of the past where visiting yachts simply dropped anchor & reversed stern to the main street has now been replaced by a large number of pontoons accommodating the unbelievable number of visiting yachts that now seem to frequent the pretty ports of the med. The restaurants of the quay all now have their few street tables of the past sitting in glamorous waterfront annexes complete with retractable roofs, wicker flooring & cane lounges. The waterfront by day was teeming with people & there is a whole new development on the opposite side of the fjiord like bay which appears to be still being added to. However as we climbed the steps to the old town, admired the spectacular views & strolled around the charming little streets very little appeared to have changed at all which I found strangely relieving. A memory of one of the favourite places of my youthful travel can hold its place & so grateful to James & Gaila for the opportunity to revisit.’

We walked out to the edge of the citadel before dinner to gaze across to Sardinia.

We had another lovely dinner at Stella D’Oro, we went back so Sue and Donald could also taste these typical Corsican dishes. Then a lovely walk down to Mercier.  It was an early departure planned for the morning, to make up the time well spent in going those extra ten miles.

In the morning, it was once again bright and sunny and we motor sailed into Castelsardo in the early afternoon.  We were all telling ourselves it would be a “quiet day”; no super yachts, none of the excitement of Bonifacio.  We were all pleasantly surprised when Castelsardo came into view.  The old city is up on a granite outcrop, with the castle built in the 12^th century by the Doria Family and today’s town built around it still exists from about 1624.  The streets and the buildings are essentially  the same today.

The old castle is now a museum, mainly of beautiful pieces dell’apprezzata basketry on display including for sailors, a ‘boat’ made of lake reeds with marsh hay to create a Fassoi boat, used by fishermen from local islands.

We climbed up to the ramparts passing cross bows, a rock throwing catapult and drawbridges.  The views from the ramparts were beautiful vineyards in the distance and we could see Corsica in the distance.  On the ramparts baby seagulls were learning to fly, being encouraged by their mothers.  It was a noisy affair with the chicks crying out “Wait for me” and the mothers squawking back encouragement.

After our Aperol Spritzers, we walked back down to Mercier and a ‘ Sue cooked’ dinner.  We enjoy the aromas from the cockpit, with a bit of Swiss jazz radio in the background.

Several other sailors are walking back up the steep hill to town for dinner  stop by and chat about which way we are headed tomorrow and we hear about where they have just been.  A beautiful pork dinner arrives as we sit outside watching Vivid Castelsardo, colors being beamed onto the granite cliff behind the marina. .   It is warmer now and we last outside until coffee.  We all agree Castelsardo has been a marvelous surprise.

Here we are in Marina di Olbia, a newish marina in Sardinia. A very swish Marina- clean and modern but not Porto Cervo prices.  Very nicely laid out with stainless bollards, beautiful warm showers, Auchan (supermarket) right down the street and our favourite houseboat cafe just 50 yards away. Also bike paths and a free shuttle to Olbia city,.  A great place by all accounts to winter your boat.  Just last night we took our passegiata at sunset overlooking islands. mussel farms and a myriad of granite outcroppings around the full expanse of Marina di Olbia.

Here’s the thing, it has been too cool until yesterday to sit outside and just enjoy a coffee on the deck. Anywhere you turn people in are speaking In Italian, German, Dutch, French and English about the unseasonable weather.  “Froid, bagnato, troppo vento, ijskoud and damn cold, what!”, you get the idea.

It was so windy, you walk into the wind head down, to create a smaller profile and quickly to get out of the wind.  I was surprised to see a boat’s name catch my eye – The Ride of Your Life beside me on the pontoon.  It stopped me in my tracks, we do have the ride of our lives on our boats.  We love the feeling of a beam reach on a fair wind. We enjoy running downwind on a fresh breeze or being heeled over in 20 knots while rounding a mark. So even if it is blowing 25 knots, there is plenty to smile about.  I think about Bill Gilbert who can always pull the positive from any weather.  Davo will always say let’s do the Friday twilight,” because by 6PM, the rain will be gone.” I think about Bill Merrington who sailed as much as he could in his 98 years, rarely leaving Eventide on her mooring.  How do you enjoy “the ride of your life”?

Yesterday, the sun came out and Kate and Mike Rider came over from their yacht Voyager of Noosa on bike & by foot from Olbia.  It is hard to explain how lovely it is to talk to someone from home especially since we were able to have coffee in the cockpit and sunshine. We really appreciated former Beneteau dealer, Mike’s expert advice and helpful suggestions.

Today is the second sunny day in a row, the sun is out and so is the bike.  The Swannos are coming tonight, so we are looking towards going to the La Maddalenas tomorrow after the six of us enjoy a nice dinner in a quiet Sunday night Olbia

Ciao Bella.

This morning, we left Bonifacio in the rain.  We had a walk to the Piazza, amidst all the building and paving works. Even in the drizzle, grey skies and cold morning, Bonifacio was picturesque.  As you sail past, you can see houses on limestone cliffs that seem fixed and solid but from the sea you see large rocks of limestone which have been undermined, the huge blocks resting at the bottom of the cliff.

The trip to Sardinia is cold, short and easy – as long as you have an autopilot that can dodge all the reefs, rocks and islands in the Straights of Bonifacio.  Even with a Coursemaster, you have to be diligent, because there is so much traffic.  In the straights, you will see large cruise ships, ferries, sailing boats, cargo ships and fishing boats and all the RIBs*, making it quite an exercise in concentration.  James likes the autopilot, he feels like the captain overseeing his ship and directing his helmsman.

 

Porto Cervo is overcast as we arrive and but then the sun comes out and we revel in the warmth and sunshine. James sailed here in 1980 and can see the changes.

The harbour and marina are well laid out, if slightly empty.  The Costa Smeralda has such a reputation for being incredibly expensive, that several fellow cruisers have said they will bypass it. At this time of year, the tariff isn’t too expensive and the hot showers are worth it.**

June 1 must be the start of the season, because there are two regattas coming up and several super yachts have come in since we arrived. Kokomo is here but flying a Cayman Island flag.  There is not a varnished mast to be seen.  These masts are like church spires rising  200 feet in the air and maybe 8 feet across at the top.  We have a photo to share with you – raising the club burgee on a Super Yacht.

We wish we could share the scents of the fresh bread baking wafting from the Boulangerie in the morning and the church bells ringing here in Porto Cervo and the jazz streaming from Swiss Jazz.  At the moment, we only have bandwidth for words and photos, so we hope you enjoy them.

Ciao Bella

*RIB – Rubber inflatable boats
**Showers – we paid E2.5 for cold showers one day